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OUT
OF THE BOX |
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| The
Wild
Hare R/C 84" EDGE 540! |
Okay...
now without the packaging. |
All
finished, that was easy! LOL |
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ASSEMBLY |
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I ordered the
Kirbys
Kustom Graphics first thing! Dennis
and Debby emailed me their ideas, and a
few days later the graphics were here and
applied. This is the fun stuff. |
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| I'll
attach the airframe to this engine. |
The
3W-50i
and 3W
canister.
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The
3W
canister
looks easy enough to install. |
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Ryan
Vu told me he was going to come down for a whiz-bang
weekend of building. We started on the
hinging. What I like to do with these
Robart hinges is squeeze them to their
stops and stick the knuckle into some
teflon gel lube. After you work that stuff
into each side of the knuckle... you can
put epoxy all over it and it will still be
smooth as silk when the epoxy dries and
breaks off. I use the 1/8" round stir
sticks for the application of the slightly
generous amount of epoxy into the holes, I
also put a light coating of epoxy on the
hinges.
As I've always done, I used 30min epoxy to
install the hinges (Pacer
30min
Z-POXY from ZAP). Also, I don't go for
those tight gaps on these ARFs... I go a
minimum of 1/16". I don't want any
binding and/or broken hinges... and I want
alot of throw, baby! |
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| Ryan
got the servos,
extensions, control horns, servo arms,
titanium turnbuckles, et al... finished
and out of the way. Ryan sanded bevels
onto the acorn nuts on the control posts
so that they fit perfectly. |
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*
Hitec
5945 Servos
* Mounted with
microfasteners
servo screws
* 1/16" hole drilled, screw installed
and removed,
ZAP
Thin CA dropped into the holes, allowed to dry,
servos re-installed
*
1-1/4" Aluminum Servo Arms
* Titanium Pushrods
* Rocketcity style #8 Control Horns
* Extensions taped onto the servo leads
with masking tape, as always
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| The
plan all along was two 5945s on a
pull/pull for the rudder. There is one
servo slot cut in already. Ryan cut in
another slot where a lightening hole was.
Backed it out underneath for the servo
mounting screws. Used the same technique
as always with the
ZAP
Thin CA,
and here you have it. |
Then
we thought, "bellcrank or no
bellcrank?" We looked around and I had a
bellcrank with
1/4" offset to compensate for the
crossover cables (when you install the
rudder control horn with its pivot point
in the hinge line). So, we decided, "bellcrank." |
This
rudder doesn't have much of a taper at the
control horn location, but many rudders
do... and
DUBRO
makes this cool rudder control horn for
those applications. The nuts clamp down
over some beveled washers, slick. We're
not using it on this plane, but I just
thought I'd show you this cool product. |
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Wild
Hare R/C's hardware pack is really coming
in handy... here you can see the
DUBRO
rudder control horn that Wild Hare R/C
includes. We ended up modifying the
DUBRO
clevises so that the pivot point was in
the hinge line. This just requires a
minute or two with the Dremel and the
drill (we did not go with the Rocketcity
style clevis shown in this picture).
Wild Hare R/C provides two hard points in
the rudder. The upper one for the rudder
control horn and the lower one for the
tiller arm on the tailwheel. We opted to
put the rudder control horn in the lower
hard point to assure we could get killer
throw on the elevator without running into
the rudder control horn. Ryan pulled up
the covering on the bottom of the rudder
and glued in a piece of plywood to mount a
carbon fiber tailwheel tiller arm plate
we'll carve out later. |
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| Ryan
finished up the pull/pull... he put a
DUBRO
antenna tube over one of the wires to
avoid any interference. This setup is very
slick... and easy. |
You
can just see the mods to the
DUBRO
clevises to get the pivot point on the
hinge line. The geometry came out
perfect... no tightening but rather just a
very slight slacking of the non-pulling
cable at full deflection. |
This
shows the stock location of the elevator
(upper) and rudder (lower) servos. The
elevator servos are too close to the stab
to get the throw we want. So, naturally,
we mod'ed it.
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Here's
what it looked like after I had marked
around the standoffs, and then drilled out
holes for blind nuts. Also note that
before I started I drilled a 2-3/8"
hole in the firewall for the rear carb...
2-3/8" because that's the only size
bit I
had.
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I
inserted the
DUBRO
blindnuts and secured them with
ZAP
Thin CA. That keeps them from ever being
pushed through when you're removing and
replacing the engine. Once the CA was
cured I went ahead and mounted up the
motor. |
Next
I ripped out the metric blindnuts that
come stock to hold on the cowl. I replaced
them with
DUBRO
SAE 6-32 blindnuts. I used
ZAP
Thin CA to secure them in place, as
always. |
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I
did that so I could use standard SAE 6-32
stainless steel machine bolts and sealing
washers now available from:
microfasteners |
The
engine lined up perfectly with the cowl on
the first try using the ol' ladder trick.
And, Fred's standoff lengths were right
on! Check out that awesome
Tru-Turn
spinner! |
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| Used
one of these cool linkage covers that
3W
makes. |
Used
Smart-Fly
heavy duty switches. |
Used
DUBRO
2.5" x 1/4-20 bolts to mount the
motor. |
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| Here's
how I setup the choke and throttle servos.
Hitec
5245 Digitals. |
I
generally use ball joints on everything...
but I think I'll try these
DUBRO
Safety Lock Kwik-Links here. |
I
used the new super heavy duty Hitec servo
arms. The little white servo arms that
come with the Hitecs would have been
perfect... but these looked so
cool. |
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I
extended the throttle arm about 5/8"
to gain some resolution. |
Here's
the carb side... still gotta put the
locknuts on the engine bolts, and also the
velocity stack on the carb... but you can
see the linkage setup here. |
Here's
the DOD plumbing method...
DUBRO
barbs, cable ties, 3-lines, no T, two
clunks.
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| Got
the plumbing hooked up... the
DUBRO
Kwik-Links worked out well with the tight
tolerances versus the ball-links that I
typically use on everything. |
Here's
the
3W
fuel dot.
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As
I did on the WH Extra... I dremeled off
the stock piece of wood and ZAP'd in a new
wider one. The wider wood with the two
bolts makes the wheel pant alot sturdier. |
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Okay...
sometimes a feller ought should check the
manual bag. The engine came with a
throttle arm... and also rubber grommets
for mounting the ignition.
Also comes with a red LED to show it is on
for safety... and since this has been
asked so many times before, recommended
breakin oil... petroleum @ 30-1, then
synthetic at the oil manufacturer's
specs... both with high octane gas. Also,
a recommended minimum 4" from the
ignition to the RX. This ignition also has
an aux lead for a tach or other device. I
have the tach and may try it out after I
get a few flights in. |
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COMPLETED |
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FLYING
PICTURES |
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SLIDESHOW |
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Wild
Hare R/C
Edge 540
Slideshow |
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FLYING
VIDEOS |
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Maiden
flight on my WH EDGE and also on my 3W-50 on
canister!
36.4MB |
Waterworld...
33.3MB |
Early
flights on my WH EDGE and 3W-50!
30.3MB |
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